The Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, Colorado: A Place of Change

 By Steven Wade Veatch

In 1965—when I was a boy—I picked up a chunk of petrified wood (about 34 million years old, or Late Eocene age) at the Florissant fossil beds and wondered how it was formed. This simple act changed my life: it started me on my lifelong hobby of collecting rocks, minerals, and fossils, and later influenced my decision to study science at college. Both were big and long-lasting changes in my life.

Steven Veatch (11 years old) and his brother Greg Veatch (4 years old)
sitting at the fossilized Big Stump at the fossil beds in 1965.
This was when the park was a private tourist enterprise. 

Years later, I experienced another transforming moment—meeting legendary scientist Estella Leopold at the fossil beds. On that special day, Estella and I ambled along the trail to the petrified stumps, deep in our thoughts. We plunked down on a park bench and chatted the afternoon away while sharing the excitement of Ice Age pollen discovered in a Pleistocene rock layer at the fossil beds. We shared a singular purpose then—to reveal a part of the Ice Age here at the fossil beds. Because the record of Ice Age pollen in the Rocky Mountains was limited, our work on Florissant’s Ice Age pollen was important. 

The Florissant Fossil Beds is also a place of change. Its landscape is a mosaic of montane forests and rich meadows enfolded in ever-shifting patterns of light, sound, and fragrance. It is a gateway to nature, to the past, and to the present. It is a tale of imagination, of scientific exploration, and of the Ute people. Whenever I visit, I find myself sinking mindlessly into its petrified past while I ponder its present.

The natural beauty at the fossil beds is also an invitation to explore its possibilities, to plunge into the forest and consider the flight of pollen grains, borne on a morning breeze. Or to follow a moss spore’s journey. Water moves slowly through Grape Creek. Moss-covered boulders slow the creek, making small pools. Gnats flutter above the creek, and green grasses, dotted with wild iris and other wildflowers, line its banks. Springs, coming from deep inside the ground, help feed the watercourse. I can feel this stream and its sounds deep within my soul. It is sublime.

Grape Creek in the fall. This creek runs through the monument.
Photo date 2018 by S. W Veatch.

My wife and I walk the forest trails often, and the landscape feels alive. Beard lichen’s wiry hair drops from forked branches. Chickadees and woodpeckers live with owls, deer, and black bears. There is a forest symphony of sounds composed of hums, trills, chatters, and peeps. Frogs call their mates. Wind stirs through the trees, rustles branches, and knocks down yellow mists of ponderosa pollen.

Black Abert squirrels leave a litter of chewed cones and tiny twigs, stripped of their bark, on the ground. In the winter, these cones, seeds, and twigs lie on the snow, showing that these squirrels do not hibernate. In the spring, pasque flowers poke up through the fallen pine needles and bloom in a soft lavender.

A pasque flower, a harbinger of spring, blooms
at the Florissant Fossil Beds.
Photo date 2019 by S. W. Veatch.

I notice the slow changes to a rotting log on the fossil bed’s forest floor. The log shows the passage of time on a different scale: the time it takes for a big, downed tree to be transformed back into soil—two centuries, or about seven human generations. 

Brimming with life, the log—now crumbled bits and pieces of wood covered with leaf litter—is a habitat for many species. Beetles chew the wood, forming serpentine galleries beneath the bark. Colonies of ants live in the cavities, forage for food, and remain subordinate to the mother queen. A mouse lives beneath the log’s rotting roots; fungal strands penetrate the decaying wood. Patches of lichen and moss grow green on its surface. Spiders spin webs on spindly branches. 

The log is now a spongy, mossy mound that once was a living tree. In this thriving microcosm of decay-dwelling species, there is a quiet yet energetic chemical factory recycling nutrients and organic matter. Altogether, this log, and others like it, nurture the forest by adding nutrients that sustain its health. And so it is that this landscape “nurses” my spirit.

There are other beneficial changes at the fossil beds. A combination of lightning strikes, a dry forest, and dry winds can cause a wildfire, which spreads across the landscape, bringing sudden change. Ponderosa pines are resistant to fire due to their thick bark and limbs that extend above the forest floor. Fire maintains the ponderosa pine forest by killing off competing trees. The ash from wildfires revitalizes the forest. 

Change at Florissant comes in many ways with the cycles of day and night. The red dawn splashes the sky with morning possibilities. The midday sun floods the valley with brightness while the spires of green trees poke at the sky. Wavering shafts of afternoon sunlight reach the forest floor. After sundown, the twilight spreads like ether, and the mountains cool like stone while the valley fills with a flood of moonlight. The stars become pinpricks that sizzle in the night sky.

The circling seasons of the sun, snow, and rain bring change on a longer scale. Summer sunlight falls from unbelievably blue skies. There is music in the rain as it slaps aspen leaves, bounces, and splats on the ground before it disappears into the soil. In the fall, the air is crisp, and the aspen leaves are a brush stroke of radiant gold and orange. In the winter, elk weave tracks across snowy slopes. Coyotes send their penetrating calls bouncing across the white meadows when the frosty night comes on.

Raindrops bead up on fallen aspen leaves at the park.
Photo date 2004 by S. W. Veatch.

Physical processes, such as the imperceptible progress of drifting continents, erosion, soil formation, or freeze-thaw cycles, bring change. And there are more rapid agents of disturbance—such as nearby volcanic eruptions that occurred 34 million years ago. These cataclysms sent flows of mud coursing down the river valley, forming a dam and lake that transformed organisms into fossils. The mud also surrounded the bases of trees, and, over time, petrified them. 

Today, petrified stumps stand like sentinels in the forest. Lichens cling to petrified wood like starfish on rocks. Kingdoms of moss stake their claims on fossil tree stumps. Whenever I hold a Florissant fossil or look at a stone stump, I experience the physical vastness of time and space.

A National Park Service archaeologist points out a peeled or
culturally modified tree at the monument. The Utes used
the bark for cradle boards and scraped the cambium layer
for food and medicine. Photo date 2004 by S. W. Veatch. 

Cultural change is a part of the fabric of this land of petrified forests and fossils. This was first the home of the Ute people, where their elders said you could learn a lot from listening to the land. The land was taken from the Utes, and these people were sent to less desirable places to subsist. I find evidence of these people today in the trees they modified or by finding an occasional arrowhead that is washed to the surface by summer rains. Roads brought homesteaders, who worked the land. Nearby goldfields intensified settlement. 

Lastly, the values of people change. After decades of being a commercial tourist attraction, people wanted to preserve the fossil beds. Activists, including Estella Leopold, helped to prevent the destruction of the fossil beds until the National Park Service could preserve the area for future generations. Outside the park, the forest and meadows were plowed under by bulldozers, subdivided, and further broken up by lots, fences, and roads. 

Advertisement for one of two tourist establishments
at the fossil beds circa 1965. Two tourist operations operated
at the fossil beds before it became a national monument.
From the S. W. Veatch collection.

Forests change, species evolve, and life proceeds. Today, the beauty of this place invites overuse, while the effects of climate change threaten the fossil beds with future habitat destruction and species extinction. 

For me, the Florissant landscape is a sacred place: A place of change, a place to meditate and scribble in a journal—a place to gain insight into how to live my life. It positioned me to think about time and change, to peer into the past and imagine the future. And to feel the present while I reflect on life, death, order, disorder, continuity, and change.